The sun had long since set by the time I got to Crater Lake National Park. I had made the long drive from Davis, CA to Crater Lake National Park after work to spend the weekend in Oregon’s only national park. I couldn’t wait to check out Crater Lake as it would be my 42nd national park and the last of the Cascade mountain national parks. As with most of my trips, this was a last minute decision to spend the weekend in Crater Lake.
I had been plagued with indecision on which national park to visit for the weekend. I couldn’t decide between Redwoods National Park and Crater Lake National Park. They both were about equal drive time from Davis, yet I couldn’t decide. In the end, Crater Lake won because it was July and Crater has limited winter access.
I had planned to camp in the Mazama Campground at Crater Lake but it was full. This wasn’t surprising but it was worth a shot. I wasn’t worried. Crater Lake is surrounded by National Forest which means dispersal camping is available plus there are always some campgrounds in the national forests. I headed into the park to hunt a great spot to do some night photography. I headed up to the Crater Lake Lodge. I wasn’t in love with that spot so I headed west on the rim road until I found pullout overlooking Wizard Island and had an amazing view of the lake with the stars above.
It was too much to ask for a mirror surface but I had a great view of the lake with the stars above. I didn’t want to just watch the stars I wanted to spend the night photographing the stars since they were so bright and I so rarely get a cloud-free night in national parks. I spent most the night away supervising my camera. One is not allowed to sleep outside of designated campgrounds in the national parks (and can get a ticket for sleeping in your car outside of a designated campground). That being said if you are actively awake and doing something you can spend the night doing things like star photography.
After watching the sunrise over Crater Lake, I headed back down to the visitor center to figure out the boat tours and my other plans for the weekend. I knew I wanted to do a boat tour and some hiking.
Since I didn’t plan ahead for this trip, I didn’t have boat tour tickets but that was ok. I knew that a selection of tickets made available 24 hours before tours start. There are three different boat tours options on the lake. The first is the standard two and half hour tour of the lake. The second is a shuttle out to Wizard Island with a three hour on the island. The third tour is a combination of the tour and the shuttle. The tours are an additional cost.
Due to some technical issues, they weren’t running the combination tour but they use the same boat for the 9:00 standard tour and the 11:30 shuttle. Booking the tours seperatly was an extra $5.00 but it was worth it to do both. The only issue is that tickets are released exactly 24 hours before the start of the tour. Meaning I had to be at the Crater Lake Lodge at 9:00 am and 11:30 am to buy my tickets. That sucked but oh well.
I got my ticket for the 9:00 am boat tour and then did a short hike along the rim of the lake. I was just at about to turn around and head back to get my 11:30 ticket when I had to stop and do a double take. There was a person wearing a banana suit hiking towards me. I wasn’t hallucinating. It was a young female like myself who was wearing a banana suit in a national park. I had to stop and ask about it. She got the suit as a kind of gag gift that she started wearing because she takes pictures for her mom. Now she does it to be funny. She was in Oregon to attend a wedding on the way to Alaska. Now, I had a Denali Road Lottery Permit that I still didn’t have a car for in September. I made a split second decision and asked her if she wanted to meet me in Denali and drive the road with me. And that is the funny story behind how I meet a banana and ended up with a car for the Denali Road Lottery. Check out her Instagram account at @wearinthebanana.
After getting my ticket for the shuttle, I headed out East Rim road. I stopped and did the 0.5 mile Castle Crest trail. The trail is a small but short trail that goes out to a small stream and meadow with great wildflowers.
My next stop was Videa Falls which located just off the side of the road. I stopped and enjoyed lunch at the picnic area near the falls. Despite the location, the Falls is fed by a small stream, not the lake.
From there I hiked the Sun Notch trail. Sun Notch is a 0.8-mile loop that took me up to the rim of Crater Lake and it had amazing views of the Phantom Ship. The trail is located in a small valley was formed by an ancient glacier. The Phantom Ship is the smallest of the two island in the lake. It looks like a small sailboat from the rim but the Ship is actually as tall as a 16-story building and the rock is the oldest exposed rock in the caldera.
I drove down the Pinnacles road to the Pinnacles trailhead to hike the 0.8-mile Pinnacles Trail. The trail follows along the edge of the Pinnacles Valley and features fossil fumaroles that formed from the volcanic ash that turned into solid rock and has been eroding every since.
I kept driving around the Rim road and stopped to explore the overlooks and check out the amazing views around the lakes. Each overlook, overlooks Crater Lake but each overlook has a different view of the geological features of the lake.
I set up to watch the sunset over the Pumice Castle Overlook and then spent half the night up photographing the stars.
I was up early the next morning (aka 6:00 am) to drive over to Cleetwood Cove Trail. The Cleetwood Cove Trail is the only trail goes below the rim of Crater Lake. Most of the rim is unstable and access is restricted to the overlook and trails above the rim. Cleetwood is a 1.1-mile steep trail down to the Crate Lake boat dock. The only boats allowed on the lake are the park boats and all fishing gear should be cleaned to minimize the introduction of new species into the lake.
I checked in at about 7:00 am for my boat tour. It is recommended that you check in an hour before the boat tour to give you plenty of time to hike down the boat launch. The hike only took me 45 minutes. I had about an hour to explore and enjoy the lake views from the area around the boat dock and stick my feet in the lake. The water is cold. It is a snow-fed lake so the water is never warm. During August, the surface averages about 59F.
At 9:00 am, my boat tour left the dock and started around the lake in a counterclockwise direction. The boat provided a completely different perspective of the lake. It was amazing to look up the high walls and see the amazing geology of the lake.
The lake is so large that it has its own currents. This is most evident by the Old Man of the Lake. The Old Man is a 30ft tall hemlock tree that has been floating vertically around the lake since at least 1896. He floats around the lake going where the currents push him. He has been recorded to travel up to several miles a day depending on the wind and current. In the old days of the park, the rangers would stand on the log to show how buoyant the log was. I wouldn’t do that. Given my balance, I would fall in the lake before I even stood on the log.
We made it thru Skell Channel around Wizard Island, when disaster struck. My tour boat broke down. My driver did everything he could to fix the boat but alas we had to get towed to Wizard Island.
They estimated it would take about an hour and a half to fix. I looked at that and realized that if I wanted to get to the Witches Cauldron at the Summit of Wizard Island, I need to hurry. The Wizard Summit trail is a 2.2-mile trail that has 760 feet of elevation gain.
I had to hike up the trail significantly faster than I planned. It was an uphill rush, but I made it to the top in about an hour and decided that I had time to take the 0.3-mile trail around the cauldron. Despite being July the Cauldron still had snow. Before the season starts, the rangers will hike up to the summit with a sled and go sledding in the cauldron.
I hauled but down the mountain and back to the boat dock to learn that our boat couldn’t be repaired and we were getting picked up by the other boat and all the rest of the tours for the day had been canceled. I refilled my water bottle from the end of the boat dock and took a breather as I waited for our boat pick up.
I was disappointed that I didn’t get the full boat tour but at least I got to hike on Wizard Island. I was surprised that I was issued a full refund on both tours. I was ultimately happy with my day. I got to do everything I wanted.
Back in Cleetwood cove, I made the long 1.1-mile hike back up to the rim of Crater Lake and from there made the drive back to Davis, CA.